When it comes to EVs, some back-yarders may well be up there with the Harold Lloyd types, dangling on a high voltage precipice. What am I on about? You’ll recall my expensive BMS master controller I griped on about some time ago – it handles the high current charging brought into the car via a relay in the box which also houses the comms relay for battery management. The 12v line was built into the same box on a board my mother could have etched (actually, she’s pretty cool at offering board, so sorry Mom) and there were some safety/durability issues we were concerned with. Nakey’s actually got me a separate box for the 12v line, plus a separate relay box for the DC-DC converter for which I cut a hole out the other day in the opposite pillar from the charger. Keeping primary and secondary lines separate, and ensuring absolute safety against grounding the high voltage to the car is paramount.
Charge port relay and BMS housing.
Getting the right gauge wire is just the start; running it neatly-protected is another. While my wrists grew sore feeding power line cable through plastic flex conduit, it was worth it. Thankfully Nakey did most of this and protecting cabling from coming astray, getting crimped or shorted as it was fed through many new holes and firewalls, is essential.
Grommets in through-holes are used and the main battery conduits are well-secured in heavy duty flex. Such cable is then easily saddle-clamped and safely tucked away from potential hazard areas. Some EV dudes don’t do this. When I turn the key and the contactor goes closed circuit, I don’t want any surprises. Safety as a regulation for charging is equally important.
As soon as I lift the fuel door lever, a brake switch engages, leaving the contactor open-circuit and shutting off the system from the live side. Most positive and most negative in the battery system is well laid out and well spaced apart for that matter, the negative conduit running to the rear pack on the opposite side of the car from the positive.
Fuse boxes are housed in heavy duty ABS plastic from Jaycar and the battery management modules all sprayed in military grade conformal coating. Nice. I must admit, it’s clickety-clack relay-world in my car but much preferred over simple, potentially hazardous wiring solutions. I’d have to say it’s relay good.
Been very, very slack in uploading more photos; I apologize for this. Despite the apparent cram of components in the following images, this car will be roomy where it counts. Also, have elected not to use the spare tire even though there’s room. Will be using one of those tire filler cans like Fix a Flat instead; should be legally acceptable in this State but will need to check, otherwise an ugly space-saver will be used, as the height of the original tire will partly block my rear view, so to speak.
Stuff like Fix a Flat has been around for some time now and tested under several harsh conditions to be proved safe and reliable for a reasonable distance to the nearest repair shop to get the tire fixed. Compact, easy to use, last for miles – no more fat hairy dudes stopping to offer this chic ‘more help than needed’ if I next get a flat – saves me getting dirty from changing tires, hi hi.
Rear battery tank showing Thunderskys and BMS.
My fuel port - the Zivan will suck about 16A. Brake switch shuts off system when door is open. More durable than a micro switch.
Engine Bay - yes I know, a Zilla may sit here one day, but the robust Curtis serves well.
My IOTA air-con inverter showing one of the nice ceramic fans bought at the local computer market.
Safety relay setup for 13.8v systems (the air-con draws about 24A).
Fuse box and accessory gel-cell. Always have an acc battery for hazard warning, brake and headlights, etc should the DC-DC unit fail.
My busted main Airpax breaker (on top of pwr steer mounting) - still waiting for a replacement!
Dr Horrible's assistant, ready to burn some nasty Chevron 'Human Energy' (as it says on their website).
